The newbie FAQ thread

[milkman]

I am planning on putting together my Giant soon (I only have the frame) and I have a few newbie questions to ask. So I thought I'd bundle it into one thread, as I am sure some others might be curious (or not).

Firstly, steerer length? I know this is the tube above the fork but what is the average steerer length? I am looking at buynig some s/h forks and wodner what is adequate?

Why are some hubs 20mm? Do I need to know this when buying forks or wheels? Would I need it?

What is BB (bottom bracket??)? why is this significant? or is it universal?

Are cassettes universal? What do I need to know before I buy one?

I am currently looking at hoarding bits for a Giant Yukon FX build and abit puzzled (yes some will tell me to buy a complete bike, but I wanna learn).

[Matt]

[/B][/B]
I am planning on putting together my Giant soon (I only have the frame) and I have a few newbie questions to ask. So I thought I'd bundle it into one thread, as I am sure some others might be curious (or not).

Firstly, steerer length? I know this is the tube above the fork but what is the average steerer length? I am looking at buynig some s/h forks and wodner what is adequate?

Why are some hubs 20mm? Do I need to know this when buying forks or wheels? Would I need it?

What is BB (bottom bracket??)? why is this significant? or is it universal?

Are cassettes universal? What do I need to know before I buy one? All 8 and 9 speed Cassettes have the same width on the freehub.

I am currently looking at hoarding bits for a Giant Yukon FX build and abit puzzled (yes some will tell me to buy a complete bike, but I wanna learn).

Below is the geometry of the 2008 yukon fx from the giant site.
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/_upload_us/bikes/models/geometry//2008/8YukonFX.jpg

For the steerer length it needs to be length E plus the Stem height and any spacers that you will use. (the giants have a zero stack headset so that doesn't add to the eqn.) I would recommend that if you could find a fork with an uncut steerer just to be safe.

Some forks have a 20mm thru axle (as opposed to a 9mm quick release found on most bikes) the advantages of 20mm axle is that the steering is more stiff and precise however this adds more weight. Some newer forks also come with a 15mm axle as this retains the 20mm attributes while being lighter than 20mm. It all depends on what riding you will be doing with the bike and how hard you will be riding it.

The bottom bracket is the bearing enclosure where the cranks go through the big hole thingy in the bike above. No this is not universal and I am unsure of the size of the yukon Fx one. I would recommend a shimano external bottom bracket system for ease of installation.

All 8 and 9 speed Cassettes have the same width on the freehub. I would probably suggest a good 9 speed shimano cassette.

I think that is about it... if anything needs fixing tell me.

[fLhayabusa]

Great thread! I have one to add.

Can you unbuckle rims?

[milkman]

Thanky you Matt, that was quite thorough!

So uncut steerer for me. I found a fork thats 195mm in steerer length, going off measurements from the Giant diagram it should theoretically fit!

9 speed Shamno cassette.

I don't think I'll need a 20mm thru axel, I am not that hardcore! I assume this mainly concerns downhill and extremely anal XC riders?

With regard to 20mm thru axels are there specific wheels/hubs you need to buy for it? Don't wanna buy a wheelset and then find it don't fit!

For my info. Giant Yukons have 68x113mm BB's.

[supertight]

Thanky you Matt, that was quite thorough!

So uncut steerer for me. I found a fork thats 195mm in steerer length, going off measurements from the Giant diagram it should theoretically fit!

9 speed Shamno cassette.

I don't think I'll need a 20mm thru axel, I am not that hardcore! I assume this mainly concerns downhill and extremely anal XC riders?

With regard to 20mm thru axels are there specific wheels/hubs you need to buy for it? Don't wanna buy a wheelset and then find it don't fit!


By the way i have some 20mm bolt thru axle forks for sale dirt cheap if you want. Please search for Marzochhi Bommber All Mountain 4 Forks on this forum. Make me an offer! :)

[milkman]

By the way i have some 20mm bolt thru axle forks for sale dirt cheap if you want. Please search for Marzochhi Bommber All Mountain 4 Forks on this forum. Make me an offer! :)

Thanks for the offer! However, the Giant Yukon FX runs 100mm travel forks. Going off what I have read, I should only be going +/- 25mm before I throw out my geometry. I think..

[ADAM7935]

the giant yukon fx is a dual suspension bike unlike the diagram?

[a.davis12]

Thanky you Matt, that was quite thorough!

With regard to 20mm thru axels are there specific wheels/hubs you need to buy for it? Don't wanna buy a wheelset and then find it don't fit!

For my info. Giant Yukons have 68x113mm BB's.

yup, if you want 20mm front axle youll need a 20mm front hub. im not going to name them, as there are heaps, and SOME hubs can be converted between the different standards. (like hope pro 2s)

and with regard to the bb, 113 is the length of the spindle, this is releavent for older style cranks. the new hollowtech 2 system from shimano (and other less good copies from other brands) uses an integrated spindle on the cranks, this negates the need for these measurements as the supplid bb that comes with these cranks can be used in any frame 68-73mm.
tha may have confused you more.

look up sheldon brown on google. he will help.

[Matt]

the giant yukon fx is a dual suspension bike unlike the diagram?

Yes it is. You will find that all the diagrams on the giant site are hard tails even though the bike may be dual suspension. It doesnt matter anyways.

[ADAM7935]

Oh ok

[milkman]

yup, if you want 20mm front axle youll need a 20mm front hub. im not going to name them, as there are heaps, and SOME hubs can be converted between the different standards. (like hope pro 2s)

and with regard to the bb, 113 is the length of the spindle, this is releavent for older style cranks. the new hollowtech 2 system from shimano (and other less good copies from other brands) uses an integrated spindle on the cranks, this negates the need for these measurements as the supplid bb that comes with these cranks can be used in any frame 68-73mm.
tha may have confused you more.

look up sheldon brown on google. he will help.

Thank you, I am will probably go Shimano, so very helpful. I was getting confused as to why they weren't quoting length! :confused:

Cheers

More questions to follow.. I am sure lol

[milkman]

with regard to the bb, 113 is the length of the spindle, this is releavent for older style cranks. the new hollowtech 2 system from shimano (and other less good copies from other brands) uses an integrated spindle on the cranks, this negates the need for these measurements as the supplid bb that comes with these cranks can be used in any frame 68-73mm.
tha may have confused you more.

look up sheldon brown on google. he will help.

Going off thiis.. Can I assume something like the following will fit?!

http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/SHCKMW8SA/title/SHIMANO-Saint-Crankset


The Arm (crank) length of 170mm, is that standard?

I assume with this kit, it'll negate the need for me to buy:
- Bottom Bracket
- Front Cassette/Sprocket
- Cranks

[Jess]

This isn't really a Q relating to building a bike, but I think it qualifies as a newbie one.

As the title states, my preload adjuster twisty-knob thing is jammed :(

It's a Suntour XCR-LO fork. An SF7, I think. Link (http://srsuntour-cycling.com/SID=si36d2d8d7eba5d850665f602b53bdaf/index.php?screen=sh.detail&tnid=1637).

It's pretty much stuck on the one setting now and I can no longer twist it either way.
I'm not sure if it was because there was some grit around there or if it's because I twisted it too far one way.. but it's stuck now. :o

Is it totally fubar'd? Or is there something (relatively simple) I can do to fix it?

I had a look at the instruction manual (http://srsuntour-cycling.com/customGates/scripts/binary.php?BinaryCodeID=746&filename=SF+instruction+sheet+English+2007) and the exploded view diagram (http://srsuntour-cycling.com/customGates/scripts/binary.php?BinaryCodeID=949&filename=Exploded+view) but there was nothing in there I found useful, just that part 16 is where I think my problem is.

My bike is still under warranty and it's probably best if I take my bike back to the shop but it'll annoy me all week until I can get there to find out what happened to it. Booooooo!!

Anyone have any ideas? TIA!

[Tim]

This isn't really a Q relating to building a bike, but I think it qualifies as a newbie one.

As the title states, my preload adjuster twisty-knob thing is jammed :(

It's a Suntour XCR-LO fork. An SF7, I think. Link (http://srsuntour-cycling.com/SID=si36d2d8d7eba5d850665f602b53bdaf/index.php?screen=sh.detail&tnid=1637).

It's pretty much stuck on the one setting now and I can no longer twist it either way.
I'm not sure if it was because there was some grit around there or if it's because I twisted it too far one way.. but it's stuck now. :o

Is it totally fubar'd? Or is there something (relatively simple) I can do to fix it?

I had a look at the instruction manual (http://srsuntour-cycling.com/customGates/scripts/binary.php?BinaryCodeID=746&filename=SF+instruction+sheet+English+2007) and the exploded view diagram (http://srsuntour-cycling.com/customGates/scripts/binary.php?BinaryCodeID=949&filename=Exploded+view) but there was nothing in there I found useful, just that part 16 is where I think my problem is.

My bike is still under warranty and it's probably best if I take my bike back to the shop but it'll annoy me all week until I can get there to find out what happened to it. Booooooo!!

Anyone have any ideas? TIA!


Just curious, did you actually notice a difference between the opposite extremes of the preload adjustment? I had suntour duro something forks on my old bike and couldn't feel any change whatsoever between the different settings..

Mine used to stick quite frequently as well, just took a little bit of muscle and it'd start moving again. Probably a bad idea if it is still under warranty and all, but sometimes i had to wrap the knob in a rag, and use some pliers or something similar to gently grip it and try turn it. Key word being gently;) Might be best to leave it for the shop though, I dont want to be held responsible for something breaking...

EDIT: its the knob on the left side of the forks right? (disc side..)

[Jess]

Just curious, did you actually notice a difference between the opposite extremes of the preload adjustment? I had suntour duro something forks on my old bike and couldn't feel any change whatsoever between the different settings..

Mine used to stick quite frequently as well, just took a little bit of muscle and it'd start moving again. Probably a bad idea if it is still under warranty and all, but sometimes i had to wrap the knob in a rag, and use some pliers or something similar to gently grip it and try turn it. Key word being gently;) Might be best to leave it for the shop though, I dont want to be held responsible for something breaking...

EDIT: its the knob on the left side of the forks right? (disc side..)

Yup, I did, actually. The bike felt 'lighter' and easier to ride on a softer setting when I was on riding soft dirt. When I went back onto a harder, rockier surface the bike felt alot more taily than when I had it on a harder setting. I was kind of just fiddling and experimenting with it.

Groovy, I might just try that when I can be assed getting my bike out of the car. Reeeally, reealllly gently, of course!

Thanks for the tip, Tim :) Don't worry, I won't hold you responsible if anything goes wrong, it'd be my fault for taking the risk of heeding your advice!

And yep, the knob in question is on the left side of the forks (from the rider's seat).

[a.davis12]

Going off thiis.. Can I assume something like the following will fit?!

http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/SHCKMW8SA/title/SHIMANO-Saint-Crankset


The Arm (crank) length of 170mm, is that standard?

I assume with this kit, it'll negate the need for me to buy:
- Bottom Bracket
- Front Cassette/Sprocket
- Cranks

yeah that will have everything. just take note that 170mm is actually a bit short for cranks, i ride 175mm which is probably more standard. also that only has a 32t front ring, which is good for some, but if you are riding XC you may want a bigger ring. saint is shimanos tough as f*** groupset for riding off cliffs and the like:p

[crank]

yeah that will have everything. just take note that 170mm is actually a bit short for cranks, i ride 175mm which is probably more standard.

Depending on your leg length. I used to ride 175mm cranks all the time and went to 170mm about 3 years ago. I can spin much better and still get up everything i'm ever going to climb up, they give a bit more clearance and just feel right.

Check your current crank length and if you're comfortable with it stick with that length. Or try t ride someone else's bike with a different crank length. I can feel the different straight away between 175mm and 170mm arms.

[a.davis12]

Depending on your leg length. I used to ride 175mm cranks all the time and went to 170mm about 3 years ago. I can spin much better and still get up everything i'm ever going to climb up, they give a bit more clearance and just feel right.

Check your current crank length and if you're comfortable with it stick with that length. Or try t ride someone else's bike with a different crank length. I can feel the different straight away between 175mm and 170mm arms.

yes, i should have mentioned that, it is all to do with leg length, and i do have obscenely long legs.
:o

[Lorday]

Jess, with the forks, just tap the dial wilth a rubber mallet in the direction it needs to go. Nieghbour did it, worked fine. His gets occasionally stuck, uses this as a fix.

[milkman]

Thanks guys, I'll check my Norco Wolverine specs tonight. I find the crank quite comfortable for XC riding!

[Jess]

Jess, with the forks, just tap the dial wilth a rubber mallet in the direction it needs to go. Nieghbour did it, worked fine. His gets occasionally stuck, uses this as a fix.

wOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOp! We have a winner! Thanks Lorday! Thought I'd go with your suggestion first because there was less chance of me snapping the knob off, lol. The world is right again. :loling:

[Lorday]

haha yeah. Bit or crud of something in the spring under the knob. Or not enough lube. Some jazz like that. Must remeber to post my bike up soon, so up your avalanche.

[deez]

Got a question guys....I've finally decided on what tyres to run haha.... (Maxxis Crossmarks on front, Kenda SB8s on rear) but just wondering:

If I get them in 2.1s, can I reuse my existing tubes from 1.95 tyres? I actually only have one, cos the rear has a puncture. So I'd need to get a new one anyway but just wondering if I can reuse the front?

Cheers

[Justin Fox]

Yes you can.

[deez]

Thanks JF!

[milkman]

Interested in this Fork:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=35938

Anyone know if it's possible that you can reduce the travel? I think 140mm will kill the geometry of my Giant Yukon FX.

I have read somewhere that you can reduce the travel on some Fox Forks by removing spacers or washers or something. Is this possible on the Vanilla?. :confused:

[Justin Fox]

That's a pretty damn good price. I am 100% sure you can reduce the travel on a float via spacers. I will ask Ash at MCC today if it's possible on the Vanilla and get back to you when I return.

[milkman]

Yeah, the price looks good to me!

Thanks JF, appreciate it! I'd be happy to get it down to 120mm.

[Clifton]

Interested in this Fork:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=35938

Anyone know if it's possible that you can reduce the travel? I think 140mm will kill the geometry of my Giant Yukon FX.

I have read somewhere that you can reduce the travel on some Fox Forks by removing spacers or washers or something. Is this possible on the Vanilla?. :confused:

Dont forget you will need a new front hub to fit in with the 15mm thru axle. Which i might happen to have for sale in not too long >:)

[milkman]

Thanks Cliff - yeah I saw that and figured it'd be worth having.

I trawlled thru fox's site and it appears you cannot lower vanilla's. :(

So there goes that!

F100's then..

[Justin Fox]

100% you can lower vanilla's! :) I got that from Ash at MCC.

[milkman]

Thanks Justin. I accidentally bought Fox F100 32 RL from eBay! :)

[Justin Fox]

LOL porn fork right there!

[jp.]

I have a noob question. I just bought my first pair of riding glasses. They are Tifosi Gavia's that come with the 3 different lenses.

Now i know what conditions to use the clear and smoked lenses for, but what purpose do the red/amber lens provide?

[crank]

I have a noob question. I just bought my first pair of riding glasses. They are Tifosi Gavia's that come with the 3 different lenses.

Now i know what conditions to use the clear and smoked lenses for, but what purpose do the red/amber lens provide?

I like to use my persimmon lenses (yellow) around dusk. I generally use a red lense as i find te smoke too dark when in shady areas. I use clear at night or in the rain.

[iFinch]

A few noob tube (hehe) questions. :loling:

Can you run tubeless on any rims?
Is the advantage of running tubeless the savings in weight and no pinch flats?
If yes, how come everyone is not running tubeless?

[crank]

You can run tubeless a few different ways on almost any rim.

You can do the proper UST set up, which i think is the safest bet. Downsides to this set up are the price, range and availability of UST tyres. UST tyres generally weigh more than regular kevlar beaded tyres. Sidewalls vary in thickness depending on manufacturer and type of tyre. Weight savings over a regular tubed tyre set up may be minimal or nothing.

You can run commercially made rim strips with either regular or UST tyres, but because the rim isn't specifically designed to hook up to UST beaded tyres they can burp or in the worst case scenario have the tyre pop off the rim. This can be a bit hit and miss but when done right is apparently just as good as using a proper UST set up. This set up can weigh less than UST or a regular tubed set up by using regular kevlar beaded tyres. You'll need to add some sort of sealant like Stans and may need up to two bottles or more if y want to stab ice picks through your sidewalls or ride over pieces of timber with 19 nails driven through it! :p

You can also try a home made set up using 3m tape (i forget which specific type) and a valve cut from a an old tube with some of the rubber left around the base. This is cheaper than the other set ups but is much more hit and miss until you get the process right.

You'll get better traction by running less pressure but if you do this with a tyre that has a thin sidewall, even a UST tyre, it can be easy to rip or wear a hole through the sidewall of the tyre.

I run a UST set up on all of my bikes except the SS (but it's coming) and think it's a great system. I'm just waiting for the perfect tyre for me, which i think will be the Conti 2.4" UST Rubber Queen until Maxxis do a lightweight version of their 2.5" UST Minion DHF.:)

[MrThanh]

You can also try a home made set up using 3m tape (i forget which specific type) and a valve cut from a an old tube with some of the rubber left around the base. This is cheaper than the other set ups but is much more hit and miss until you get the process right.

I'm using 3m strapping tape
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtl8&XlXMVEV76EbHSHVs6EVs6E666666--

and a cut 20" tube that goes around the whole rim, instead of simply using the valve.
the red line indicates the position of the cut tube.
http://www.no-flats.com/images/strip%20x%20diagram%20300wide.jpg