The giant rims are about as tubeless compatible as a bathtub, so you might as well just run tubes.
The schwalbe tyres are not particularly puncture resistant, and if you run the non-tubeless schwalbe's you are pretty brave. They have a very small, lightweight bead, which is good for being light, but terrible for staying on the rim when set up tubeless.
If Di2 was so intelligent, it would have a feature where, when you parked the bike, it shifted to the big ring so you didn't look like a lombard.
Yeah, that's a good point.
Some tyres convert to tubeless easier than others, in that some have beads like a geriatric hooker and won't seat up. A compressor is needed, though I have gotten away with CO2 cartridges. Don't try to seat tyres with a hand pump, a floor pump can be used in some cases if you're lucky but you're best off with a compressor.
Some brands of tyres have porous sidewalls that just seem to leak like a geriatric bladder.
Also, some sealant has ammonia in it, which is the natural enemy of aluminium, for example, the aluminium used to make aluminium rims.
Despite the risks and issues, tubeless is the way to go.
Grumps
If you wouldn't have the guts to say it to my face, don't say it to me over the internet.
ic
so whats a good rim and tire choice? I thought Schwalbe was a good brand...
Also, i have a air compressor. Do they make attachments for presta valves?
I have the typical car valve type...
You can get an adapter than screws onto the presta valve to allow a schraeder headed pump to fit. I'm sure you can get a pump head for the compressor that is presta, I've seen them used in bike shops.
What are you looking for in a tyre?
Schwalbe are good tyres, in terms of their tread pattern and compound and all that fun stuff that helps a tyre do its thing. I've never used Scwalbe on the MTBs so I can't say.
I've had Maxxis tyres delaminate and form bubbles in the tread, apparently they reacted to the sealant. Otherwise they have a good range.
I am a huge fan of Continental tyres. They're pretty much my go-to brand for tyres.
Kenda also make a good range of tyres. I've used the Small Block 8 and they were great in the right conditions.
Rims, same question, what are you looking for? I have Mavic, Sun, DTSwiss and Stans rims of various models and I can't say that I've been dissatisfied with any of them. Go for a welded rim over a sleeved and pinned rim. Providing you pick a rim that is an appropriate weight and width for its intended purpose and the wheel is built properly you should be fine.
Grumps
If you wouldn't have the guts to say it to my face, don't say it to me over the internet.
The schwalbe tyres on there are the cheap, non-tubeless ones. This is done for two reasons. (1) it is light so when people ask the bike shop to put it on the scale, it makes the bike seem lighter than others (2) they are cheap-ish but still say 'schwalbe' on the side, and thus seem like an expensive tyre ("this bike has all the good bits on it, they don't cut any corners, look at these schwalbe tyres" etc.)
Run them until they are done, then get maxxis crossmarks, which are the only proper UST 29er tyres. You'll want a UST tyre is you are going to try making these rims tubeless.
If you want to use different rims, Stans are kind of the go-to. I basically prefer pre-built wheels, but Stans are nice enough, cheapish (~$110 each rrp) and light. They aren't particularly nicely put together but they are okay.
I prefer DT swiss rims. They are very well made, are very straight and round out of the box, are eyeletted etc. They aren't as wide as a Stans rim, but they I just think they're a better product ~$180rrp in Australia (cheers dirtjerks)
I would just run the giant rims wheels as a commuter wheel with schwalbe marathon tyres (never flat - srsly) if you were thinking it is new wheel time. The wheels on giants are pretty much just place holders. Consider something like a Ringle Black Flag or a prebuilt stans no tubes crest or arch wheelset (~$600-800 ish)
If Di2 was so intelligent, it would have a feature where, when you parked the bike, it shifted to the big ring so you didn't look like a lombard.
I have now used 3 models of Schwalbe tyres on 2 bikes as tubeless and had absolutely no problems ever. Went on with a floor pump with minimal effort, hold pressure for about 4-5 days, never burped. All the tyres have been the Trail/pace star and "tubeless ready"Originally Posted by Tokyo Drifter
I have used Fat Albert F&R in Snakeskin(survived canadian DH trails), Nobby Nic non-snakeskin and Racing Ralph non-snakeskin. The racing ralphs loose pressure the quickest.
All mounted to Stans ZTR Flow or Arch rims.
hmm interesting
yea i'm looking for a fast rolling centre tyre, so maybe maxxis crossmarks or possibly kenda small block 8's?
I used to commute with my s-works epic on maxxis larson TT's so it looks quite simalar tread pattern to small block 8's. Quite good.
yea i think I'll run theses schwalbes out and look into options for tubeless. Then i can have a set for commuting and a set for trails.
would bike stores sell thou presta to tire valve adaptors?
Yeah any bike shop will sell the presta-schrader adaptor... $4 or so.
Or, if you end up using these as commuter wheels, you can drill the rim out (8.5mm) and run whatever valve you want.
Conti race kings are a fast, but drifty tyre. I like crossmarks, they don't roll as fast but feel more like they rail through a corner. Tyres are disposable, just try something out then try something different out.
If Di2 was so intelligent, it would have a feature where, when you parked the bike, it shifted to the big ring so you didn't look like a lombard.
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